This simple raglan jumper pattern is the ultimate scrap buster. Use the magic knot to join your loose ends to make a mega ball of multi coloured yarn! They’ll be minimal ends to weave in and the magic knots are barely visible on the jumper!
I’ve written this pattern for Aran weight yarn but if you want to use a different weight yarn you can easily size up or down or work more or less rounds before separating the body from the sleeves. I’ve used Aran weight yarn throughout the jumper. If you wish to mix yarn weights you can but it may impact the sizing of the jumper.
The pattern is written in US terms.
In US terms the stitch is called double crochet. In UK terms the stitch is called treble crochet.
How to make the magic knot
Notes on the pattern
The pattern comes in 8 sizes – XS, S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X. You can easily adjust the pattern to suit your measurements. I have indicated where to do this in the pattern. It is important to try your jumper on as you go.
The instructions for each size is written in brackets.
Instructions in between * and * means that you repeat the instructions until the pattern says otherwise.
10 dc means to make a double crochet in each of the next 10 stitches.
2dc means to make 2 double crochet in the same stitch.
Ch2 at the end of each round doesn’t count as a stitch.
The pattern is worked from the top down and in rounds and you will turn at the end of each round.
The sleeves are worked directly to the jumper in rounds and you will turn at the end of each round.
Sizing and yardage
- XS – 15″ chest width – 800yds
- S – 17″ chest width – 900yds
- M – 19″ chest width – 1000yds
- L – 21″ chest width – 1100yds
- XL – 23″ chest width – 1200yds
- 2X – 25″ chest width – 1300yds
- 3X – 27″ chest width – 1400yds
- 4X – 29″ chest width – 1500yds
Materials
- 5mm crochet hook
- Aran weight yarn – see above for amount needed
- Darning needle
- Scissors
Abbreviations – US terms
- Chain = ch
- Slip stitch = Sl st
- Double crochet = dc
- Single crochet = sc
- 2 single crochet together (decrease) = 2sctog
- 2 double crochet together (decrease) = 2dctog
Instructions
Follow the instructions in brackets for your size e.g. (XS, S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X)
Ch (74, 74, 78, 78, 82, 82, 86, 86). Join to the first ch with a sl st. Make sure your ch hasn’t twisted. Ch2, turn.
Top tip – place a stitch marker on the second dc of the 3dc corners. This will help you to easily identify where to place the 3dc in the next round.
Round 1 – Dc in the first (13, 13, 13, 13, 14, 14, 15, 15) stitches, make 3dc in the next stitch, dc in the next (9, 9, 10, 10, 11, 11, 12, 12) stitches, 3dc in the next stitch, dc in the next (26, 26, 27, 27, 28, 28, 29, 29) stitches, 3dc in the next stitch, dc in the next (9, 9, 10, 10, 11, 11, 12, 12) stitches, 3dc in the next stitch, dc in the remaining (13, 13, 14, 14, 14, 14, 14, 14). Join to the first stitch with a sl st. Ch2, turn.
Round 2 – *Dc in each stitch until the marked stitch (the second dc of the 3dc from the previous round), make 3dc in the marked stitch.* Repeat from * to *. Repeat around until the last corner. Dc in the remaining stitches. Join to the first stitch with a sl st. Ch2, turn.
Round 3 – Round (13, 15, 17, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28) – repeat round 2.
Separating body from sleeves
Round (14, 16, 18, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29) – Dc in each stitch until the marked stitch, dc in the marked stitch, ch (5, 7, 9, 9, 11, 11, 14, 14), dc in the next marked stitch (skipping the stitches along the side, this will make your arm hole). Dc in the stitches across the front of the jumper until the next marked stitch, dc in the marked stitch, ch (5, 7, 9, 9, 11, 11, 14, 14), dc in the next marked stitch (skipping the stitches along the side, this will make your second arm hole). Dc in the remaining stitches, Join with a sl st to the first stitch. Ch2, turn.
Top tip – try your jumper on here to ensure it fits and isn’t too tight under your arm pits. If it is too tight, undo the previous round and work a few more rounds before separating the body from the sleeves.
Round (15, 17, 18, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30) – Dc in each stitch until the ch, dc in each ch across, dc in each stitch until the next ch, dc in each ch across, dc in the remaining stitches. Join with a sl st to the first stitch. Ch2, turn.
Round (16, 18, 19, 23, 25, 27, 29, 31) – Round (41, 43, 44, 48, 50, 52, 54, 56) – dc in each stitch around. Join with a sl st to the first stitch. Ch2, turn.
At the end of your final round, do not ch2 and turn. Fasten off and weave in your ends.
You can work more or less rounds here if you’d like a longer or shorter jumper.
You can either leave your jumper with a plain bottom or you can work the edging. I have suggested a few options below.
Ribbing – optional
Ch13. Starting in the second chain from the hook, sc in each chain across. Sl st into the stitch to the left
of where you chained 13 and sl st in the next stitch. Ch1, turn
Skip the two sl sts and back loop sc in each stitch across. Ch1, turn. Back loop sc in each stitch back towards the jumper. Sl st in each of the next two stitches. Ch1, turn.
Repeat the instructions from * to * until you have finished the ribbing around the bottom of the jumper. To join the ribbing, insert your hook in the back loop of the first sc, insert your hook into the first stitch of the starting chain, slip stitch through both. Continue slip stitching through the back loop and the starting ch of each stitch of the ribbing. Fasten off and weave in your ends.
Picot stitch edging – optional
*Ch3, insert your hook into the back bar of the first ch, yarn over, pull through all loops on the hook. St st in each of the next 2 stitches*. Repeat from * to * around the bottom of the jumper. Slip stitch to the same place you made your first ch3. Fasten off and weave in your ends.
Sleeves – work the same for both sleeves
These instructions are for balloon sleeves. If you’ve prefer tapered sleeves, read further down the pattern for instructions on how to do this.
Round 1 – Join your yarn to centre of the bottom of your arm hole. You will work 1 dc in each of the ch from where you made your arm hole and 1 stitch in each of the skipped stitches around the arm hole. Join to the first stitch with a sl st. Ch2, turn.
Your stitch count isn’t too important here.
Round 2 – Round 30 – dc in each stitch around. Join to the first stitch with a sl st. Ch2, turn.
You can work more or less rounds here if you’d like a shorter or longer sleeve.
Round 31 – *2sctog, sc*. Repeat from * to * around. If you have stitches remaining, sc in each of the remaining stitches. Join to the first stitch with a sl st. Ch1, turn.
Round 32 – *2sctog, sc*. Repeat from * to * around. If you have stitches remaining, sc in each of the remaining stitches. Join to the first stitch with a sl st. Ch1, turn.
Round 33 – *2sctog, sc in each of the next 2 stitches*. Repeat from * to * around. If you have stitches remaining, sc in each of the remaining stitches. Join to the first stitch with a sl st. Ch1, turn
Round 34 – sc in each stitch around. Join to the first stitch with a sl st. Fasten off.
Option for tapered sleeves
If you’d like tapered sleeves you will need to work decrease stitches throughout the sleeve. To do this I recommend working 6 decrease stitches (2dctog) every 10 rounds. Try on your sleeve throughout to ensure it is the right fit for you. If you have tapered your sleeves you need to work less decrease rounds when shaping your cuff.
The end!
I hope you’ve enjoyed making this pattern. Please share your finished jumpers with me on Instagram @craftedbycat